Archive for September, 2009

>Maxine’s Chicken & Waffles – Indianapolis

by Mark on September 27, 2009 in Catfish, downtown, fried green tomatoes, grits, Maxine's Chicken and Waffles, restaurant review with No comments

>Indianapolis, Indiana

JUST LIKE MY GRANDMA’S GAS STATION

This was only the second time I’ve eaten at Maxine’s. The first was to expose a Jewish New Yorker friend now living in Paris to the southern tradition of chicken and waffles… and this time it was out of guilt for living just down the street and not supporting food diversity so close to home.

The family run restaurant is attached to the gas station at the corner of east and Ohio. Yes, that’s right, I said attached to a gas station. It’s somehow fitting in my mind though to have soul comforting casual food tucked in behind a service station. Go figure.

Both times were on a Sunday for lunch and the place was standing room only. Nicely mixed crowd of people looking for a family meal after church, a rest on their way to the colts game or just looking to tuck in to some smooth comfort food.

We started off with fried corn cakes with peach butter…YUM! They were perfect; slightly carmelized yet spongy, warm and rich. I would have been happy getting three orders for my meal and calling it quits.


I had a tall glass of D&K (half lemonade and half sweet tea) which is served on the sweet side of sugar. I ordered mine with regular tea and lemonade instead and was reminded of a wonderful taste from somewhere in my childhood. It’s something I plan on resurrecting in my adult life.

Although I came in for chicken and waffles I ended up ordering the catfish dinner with a side of grits and fried green tomatoes. The dinner came with three large deep fried catfish fillets in a perfectly thin crispy cornmeal coating. None of that muddy catfish taste or sour fry greese taste on these filets. The fish was clean, fresh and its crust seasoned lightly with a few shakes of classic black pepper, salt and cayenne. The fried green tomatoes were excellent and won my heart. Their hot, sweet, garden green taste will bring me back again. The grits unfortunately were nothing special, They were a huge portion mind you, but a nudge in either the savory or sweet direction from the kitchen would have been helpful.

The wait staff and cooks are friendly, smiling and happy to see you. The food is solid southern home cooking and you’re left feeling like you’ve just had a meal at your southern Grandma’s kitchen table…uh…gas station. The food is what it is…fattening, sweet, fried, inexpensive, friendly comfort food that feels good and tastes great.


Maxine's Chicken and Waffles on Urbanspoon

>Saffron Cafe – Indianapolis

by Mark on September 21, 2009 in Bakoula, Harrira, Hummus, indianapolis, Kafta Kabba, Lamb Shank, leg of lamb, pita, restaurant review, Saffron Cafe, Tajine, Zaalouk with No comments

>Indianapolis, Indiana

MORE PLEASE!

I was dubious…afterall, I have such yawnful food memories tied into that dump of a building that housed the Canary Café for all those years that I wasn’t sure anything culinary could grow out of its ashes. The Saffron Café however seems to be growing like a well tended flower.

The place was packed with people and the wonderful odor of braised meats with garlic and onions made it almost impossible not to say “yum” as you walked up to the entrance. Inside and spilling out onto the patio were large tables full of families with children, small two toppers of otherwise romantic couples, lots of locals and a ton of foreigners looking for something different. We ran into friends from the Philippines, Australia and South Africa and the people at the table next to us were from England and France….all this in the space of my living room!

I ordered a Alhambra beer and started off with plates of Hummus, Zaalouk (a Moroccan style eggplant spread) and Bakoula (a classic spinach spread) served with feta cheese, kalamata olives, tomato, cucumber, artichoke hearts and warm pita. The hummus was beautifully smooth and the Zaalouk perfectly chunky. Good olive oil everywhere and just enough lemon to zing it up. The Zaalouk could have used a splash of chili oil and they were skimpy on the artichoke hearts.

The lamb tagine was perfect home-style cooking. The portion was large and the beautifully braised chunks of leg of lamb floated in a dark unctous gravy with peas, artichoke hearts and pickled lemon. It was wonderful. I devoured every last drop and soaked the beautiful sauce up with hot crusted bread. Chef Sentissi on one of his many rounds through the house was honored with my accolade of the food being “serious home cooking!”

All of the desserts are made on location and while the Tiramisu was ok (I prefer the Sienese style which has a harder custard and a stronger coffee and liquor taste) the baklava was top notch. next time? The Harrira smelled wonderful and the Kafta Kabbab looked delicious.

Saffron Cafe on Urbanspoon

>Miyagi’s Sushi Bar – Indianapolis

by Mark on September 16, 2009 in indianapolis, Ishi Yaki, Miaygi's, restaurant review, Scallop cakes, Sushi with No comments

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Indianapolis, Indiana

TWO CHOP STICKS UP!

I was really shocked people…I thought this was going to be another one of those fringe sushi bars located in a strip mall that is just waiting for the health department to find it. Afterall, nothing says “good eats” like being told its location is sandwiched between two car dealerships. Yum!

We arrived…groaned a few times driving around the empty strip mall parking lot and weren’t anticipating much. The decor was…uh…nice! Commercially slick surfaces, polished and primped urban sushi house stylings…it felt like a midwestern low budget version of Buddakan or China Grill (that was a compliment actually).

They have a huge menu ranging from new sushi (Uni shooters and gourmet rolls) to traditional japanese favorites (maki, tempura and noodles type fare) to regular midwestern palette pleasures of filet mignon and lobster. We started off with a spicy crab salad sample served along side a wonton cracker (was I just given an amuse bouche in Indianapolis?) and it was so tangy spicy delicious I order a whole serving for myself. We mixed our selections from across the menu.

The Ultimate Tuna Sashimi…not sooo ultimate.

We ordered a smattering of traditional rolls and modern gourmet rolls recommended as house favorites. Six rolls in all and I wasn’t that thrilled with the traditional attempts. They were fine…nothing particualrly bad about them i guess…but I didn’t get that bursting fresh fish taste with any of them. I assumed it was due to the sashimi turn over not being what it should be; we were almost the only ones in the dining room on a Saturday night.

The center piece of our meal was the Ishi Yaki; the tradition of cooking meat on a hot rock table side. Our tuna selections were large and the ginger dipping sauce marinade they floated in was finger licking great! I hope Ishi Yaki has a rebirth in new japanese american cooking and becomes the new fondue. It’s elegant, tastes great and is an easy way to slow down the meal.

A nice surprise was the bacon wrapped scallop cakes. Scallops and blue crab minced with peppers, shallots and chives, wrapped in marinated bacon served on top of a plum teriyake sauce. The presentation was beautiful, the sauce not too sweet and the “cakes” juicy and large.


I think this place has a chance…the food is not the problem here…actually I’m not sure if there IS a problem here. It’s location is not very appetizing yet it has some big box restaurant neighbors that are doing very well. Come on people…let’s meet for a spicy crunchy tuna roll.


Miyagi on Urbanspoon

>Goose The Market – Indianapolis

by Mark on September 5, 2009 in charcuterie, Goose The Market, indianapolis, Muscadet, Rabbit, Verdejo, Waygu Bresaola with 1 Comment

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Indianapolis, Indiana


FOOD LOVER’S TROVE

I love this secret place…ok…it no secret anymore but it still feels like one set into the residential near northside of downtown. It’s a small market store with fresh cases hugging one side and the other side peppered with bins filled with locally picked produce, european inspired general food stock and canned goodies. The Cellar downstairs has a great selection of wines I’m usually not familiar with and in a variety of price points. The cash wrap upstairs also serves a small menu selection of gourmet sandwiches, coffees, breads and gelato.

I went in early Saturday morning for some staples and the fresh cases were stocked with beautiful dark red fresh meat, shockingly ample charcuterie (including Waygu Bresaola people!) and unctuous designer cheese. I chose a beautiful roasting rabbit (not frozen thank God), a pound of hand made Italian sausage, a few chicken parts and two lovingly wrapped large bundles of chicken necks and bones. I grabbed some local onions, a well priced bottle of Spanish Verdejo, a French Muscadet and sat outside in the morning sun to eat my breakfast. I ordered a bagel with salmon pastrami, pickled red onions and crème frâiche (which was good but could have been better with a stronger brine taste such as capers).

What I love about this place (apart from feeling like I’m living in Knightsbridge or Kensington) is that they put their money where their mouth is. These people love food so they show it. They don’t talk about loving food and then take the easy way out. They buy local (when possible) and at least 35 of their vendors I’ve counted are regional Indiana suppliers. They approach food without pretense (they have a Bacon of the Month Club for god’s sake) and I hope they flourish in this otherwise food barren town.

Goose the Market on Urbanspoon